Wednesday, October 11, 2006

Garcia’s Seafood Grille & Fish Market

Location: 398 NW N River Dr, Miami
t.305-375-0765
Cuisine type: Seafood
Price: Inexpensive
m-su 11:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.


I love a lazy Sunday right up to the point where I have the final bite of my lunch and my mind begins to drift in the direction of the impending work week. That’s when I hate Sundays. For as long as I have been working, Sundays after lunch have become, what I affectionately term: negotiations with myself; this is nothing more than an appeasing soliloquy. For as long as I have been working I try to ease the Sunday post-lunch sorrows with the perfect lunch experience at Garcia’s on the Miami River.

If you want fresh, simple, affordable, and expertly orchestrated seafood do your self a favor and pay Garcia’s a visit. I wish I could do myself that favor for dinner every now and again, but Garcia’s closes early, so plan for a lunner during the week, if you don’t work in the area, or a late lunch on the weekend.

It’s hard to go wrong at Garcia’s, though I will caution you on one thing. Resist the urge to order more fish spread and crackers, or at least curtail the desire to eat the crackers while you wait for more of the fish spread. This is their version of bread and butter, so you’re greeted with it, and believe me it’s the perfect oeuvres. Think back to the ‘don’t fill yourself on bread’ phrase you didn’t heed as a kid either, and instead order their ceviche and oysters on the half shell to start. Their ceviche is light and its citrus acidity perfectly balanced, and their oysters on the half shell are, in my opinion, one of the best deals in Miami, I bet a dozen won’t cut it.

Choosing your main course will be a matter having to do with your fish of preference. Though a good variety of the oceans bounty is offered on the menu, with a complement of specials that add color to their selection, the standards at Garcia’s are the dolphin, the snapper, and the grouper, cooked in a variety of ways. However, I would surely succumb to any adventurous inclinations their menu might inspire, and would definitely order their stone crab and/or lobster when in season. All entrees are accompanied with your pick of sides, including, salad, spiced up fries, fried plantains, yellow or white rice, coleslaw, and potatoes, none of which will disappoint.

If you go, and I hope you do, arm yourself with plenty of patience. The place is a popular spot, and the waits will reflect that, but it’s not a true experience unless you sit in the outside dining area. So pass on a seat inside, if offered, for the opportunity to dine by the colorful Miami River. Though beauty does elude this important nautical thoroughfare, it is full of personality and a strange charm that help make the event a memorable one.

Now, all that’s left to do is chuck your Sunday blues in the river (not like one more derelict item on the bottom will hurt), shoot a quick confident wave at the ships idling by on the river as they return the gesture with a hint of envy. Tell the friendly waiter to hold off on the flan and the key lime pie, keeping the work week grind at bay, as you unquestioningly heed this Miamian’s advice to hydrate and hydrate often with plenty of cold beer. Cheers!

Monday, August 21, 2006

Salmon Salmon

Location: 2907 NW 7th St., Miami
t: 305.649.5924
Cuisine type: Peruvian
Price: Moderately priced (it is seafood)
Hours: su-thu.12pm-9:30pm, f-sa.12pm-10:30pm


I need to make a confession. I have been a little reluctant to post this review. I am ashamed to say it but I’ve been holding out on what I consider to be one of Miami’s best kept secrets.

If location, location, location, is the mantra that needs to be championed for any business to be successful, successful, then Salmon Salmon should have probably closed its doors over twenty years ago. Instead, thanks to the tenacity of its name, Salmon Salmon is my pick for the best authentic Peruvian food in Miami.

I need to pause here a second and pay a well deserved homage to Peruvian food.

Peru’s rich folkloric history serves as a legacy to its people, Peruvian food is its people’s legacy to the world. Right about now you’re probably saying to yourself this guy must be Peruvian, well I’m not, I’m simply telling it like it is, or at least what I think it is. Though, you don’t really have to look very far to find evidence to support what I am saying. Perhaps you’ve seen one or two big name restaurants serve up some rendition of Peruvian fusion; the Japanese-Peruvian form seems to work well.

That said the only fusing going on at Salmon Salmon is of the shoulder-to-shoulder type. Talk about a small dining area. I think, if I’m not mistaken, there are about 8 or 9 tables and some stools at a bar area they have. The space is tight and there is only one table that can accommodate large parties but not in excess of six people. So go early or call ahead because it fills up quickly, though with the caliber of cuisine they offer you would expect their waits to be significant.

If, like me, you count Salmon Salmon as one of your usual spots, then you know what I’m talking about and can hopefully give me a few menu suggestions. If, however, you are not familiar with the restaurant and its cuisine, perhaps, at the risk of sounding overly presumptuous, you will allow me the liberty of tailoring a menu for your inaugural visit.

The menu that launched a thousand visits:

-Begin with the causa limeña (quite literally translated means Lima’s cause) and a ceviche(order either all fish or varied known as mixto, I leave this up to taste)
-Follow it with an order of chicharones mixtos con pescado y camarones (a fried assortment of fish, squid, shrimp, and plenty of it) and their corvina (sea bass) with tacu tacu (if you’ve never had this and you’re a fan of rice and beans, then prepare to be seduced by this domed offering)
-Conclude with their babarois (floating island dessert, it’s as pleasing rolling off the tongue as it is in) and don’t forget to order their café cortadito (half coffee and half milk), you can chose to have it with dessert, though, I prefer to take my coffee afterwards, it really does deserve your undivided attention
-Then discretely lean back in your chair with the self-amusing thought that the Achilles heel of your taste buds has been exposed, whilst you churn your newly found mantra in your head: Salmon Salmon

Thursday, July 27, 2006

The Restaurants of New Mexico

I traveled to New Mexico last weekend, and though this is indeed the Miami Restaurant Guide you can't let such a small technicality stand in the way of my travel stories. I will, however, stick to food talk, which apparently comes rather naturally to me, given the fact that the only pre-trip information I compiled was of a gastronomic nature, a detail I did not realize on my own but instead was pointed out to me.

Though I indulged in more than just the two restaurants that follow, I thought that a 'best of' and 'worst of' approach would keep from veering this site too far off its original vision.

Cafe Pascual's
121 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, New Mexico
t:505.983.9340
Cuisine type: Southwestern
Price: Moderately priced

This is the best food experience I had in New Mexico. If you are ever in Santa Fe this place is a must. Pascual's is the epitome of a neighborhood restaurant. The quaintness of the dining area makes you feel as if you could turn to any adjacent table and find a friend to engage in conversation. All the while oblivious to the fact that there is someone in the kitchen who really knows what they are doing. I had no idea that a place that does not seem to take itself that seriously could turn out such exquisite culinary offerings.

When the waitress, who I must add was very accommodating, invited any questions about the menu, I asked what I always ask: 'what's the best dish on the menu?' Expecting the usual answer, which of course involves anything with lobster or caviar in it, I was very surprised to hear her recommend the chicken sandwich, an item which I had completely overlooked. Shocked by her honesty I ordered the grilled free range chicken breast sandwich with manchego cheese, caramelized onions and jalapenos on toasted chile-cornbread. Let me just say that its memory still lingers. Never had I had, nor do I believe I will ever have, a better chicken sandwich. If you go for lunch trust me, order this. If you go for breakfast order the pancakes they are very good. If you go for dinner, ask the same question I did and let me know the result. If you are an organic vegetarian and you go, as is my brother, let them know and they will find a way to make your experience unforgettable as well.

Coyote Cafe
132 West Water St, Santa Fe, New Mexico
t:505.9831615
Cuisine type: Southwestern
Price: Expensive

If you are considered a chef whose renown begets comparison to a pillar of American regional fare and your flagship restaurant is heralded as the institution where modern Southwestern cuisine was founded, then, you have a lot to live up to. Chef Mark Miller was not tending to his restaurant when I dined; this is understandable given his impressive ventures as a restaurateur with both national and international reach.

I would like to, at this point, do something that breaks with the usual structure of my reviews and address myself directly to Chef Miller in hopes that he might come across this in the near future.

Dear Chef Miller,

I looked forward to dining at the Coyote Cafe. I actually garnered consensus for the visit by assuring my traveling companions (my family), that your restaurant would be the standard by which all others in the area should be measured. Your restaurant has in fact proven me wrong. The Coyote Cafe experience has been the single most disappointing gastronomic let down I have ever suffered. The food was second-rate, and the service was pretentious, rude and not to mention disobliging.

I do not doubt that your expertise is to be revered and your accolades applauded, I only regret that I was not fortunate enough to see for myself.

Your customer,

Andres

Thursday, July 06, 2006

El Taquito

Location:10314 W Flagler St, Miami
t:305.553.7466
Cuisine type: Nicaraguan
Price: Cheap
Hours: tu.closed, w-m.11am-8pm

As hole in the wall places go, and I do love hole in the wall places, this one is a little gem.

I consider myself somewhat of an expert on Nicaraguan cuisine. I don't actually dabble in the region's rich culinary techniques; however, you could say that my credibility on the subject lies in my appetite's boundless reveling for the stuff. I have been known, on more than several occasions, to help myself to seconds of my girlfriend's mother's cooking. Needless to say, she is Nicaraguan, and though I would love to have everyone over to partake in her feasts, you will have to get your fix at El Taquito; my pick for the best Nicaraguan food in Miami, well, that is to say, after you know whose cooking.

In my opinion, Nicaraguans are masters when it comes to cooking meat. They can take a very mediocre cut of meat and turn it into a succulent and tasty morsel. How do they do it? I can't say for sure, but El Taquito most definitely has some insight into the matter. Whether you have their churrasco or their carne asada you will bear witness to what I am saying. I usually have the meat or chicken churrasco for two, though you could elect to share. It includes two pieces of churrasco (thin cut of tenderloin or chicken breast, depending), two portions of gallo pinto (rice with red beans), two of queso frito (fried cheese), two tortillas (Nicaraguan flat bread), one whole platano maduro (fried plantain), and one whole platano verde (flattened crispy fried plantain). At about $14 for the platter, there is no possible way that you could go wrong, and you won't because everything on that dish is delicious. I am particularly partial to their gallo pinto, which I think formidable, though I'm still trying to find a place that serves it like some people in Nicaragua do - slightly overcooked and crunchy. If anyone knows of a place please share the wealth.

There are several things worth trying on the menu, though I must confess, I tend to stick to the usual, which is a bit out of character for me. Do, however, try their repochetas (tortilla folded over white cheese and fried), it's usually pretty good, eventhough I have been disappointed with it on some occasions.

If you go, pay particular attention to the typical artisan crafted statuette by the register. In a very humble restaurant setting, it is the only thing that sticks out in my mind, and not for a good reason. You see, my girlfriend has, on several occasions, empowered me to assume the task of negotiating the purchase of the figurine, claiming the experience would be a better one if I succeeded in its removal. I on the other hand think that it just wouldn't be the same without it.

So drop by for lunch sometime, order my usual, take your appetites and your low expectations and leave with the knowledge that you can't always judge a hole in the wall by the size of the hole, or its cover, well you know what I mean.

Remember the statuette, not that you can miss it.

Tuesday, June 27, 2006

Casa Toscana

Location: 7001 Biscayne Blvd, Miami
t: 305.758.3353
Cuisine type: Italian
Price: Moderately priced
Hours: m-f.11am-3pm, m-th.6pm-11pm, f-sa.6pm-11pm

A cozy, warm, and inviting restaurant beacon, I wish I would have driven in front of and just kept on going.

Instead, the siren like charm of its well lit outdoor seating area lulled me and my dining companions in, only to reveal yet another very bad Miami Italian eatery. The most frustrating part of this was the fact that I was actually on the way to a great restaurant. Instead, in the name of my adventurous sensibilities, I had to settle for a total gastronomic loss.

We began with the eggplant filled with goat cheese and sun-dried tomatoes and the meat carpaccio. I was so disappointed with the taste of the eggplant dish that I did not even call the waiter to inform them that the sun-dried tomatoes were nowhere to be found. As for the meat carpaccio, it was mediocre at best.

We followed the appetizers with a blackberry risotto with mascarpone and a linguini pesto. I know what your thinking, blackberry risotto, how very ambitious. Ambitious indeed, so much so, that it was a complete bust. I likened it to risotto cooked in Hawaiian Punch, my girlfriend and friend thought that was a bit much, but I can't in good faith, apologize for the simile. The pesto produced more of the same feelings. Pesto, like mole, if you read the previous review, is, for me, of essential importance at any Italian restaurant. In this case I am afraid that I have nothing good to say about it.

We concluded our dinner with an amaretto infused apple raisin tart with cinnamon ice cream. I think at this point I was so disillusioned that I barely tried the dessert at all; the only thing I will say is that the ice cream did in fact taste very much like cinnamon.

Even now, as I attempt to say something positive after such harsh criticism, as is human nature, I cannot find a single redeeming quality in my experience, short of saying that the owner was helpful and accommodating, and that the bottle of wine we had was worth the $27 price tag.

Having spent $100 (around $50 per person) I am still growing my mental list of: '20, and counting, ways I could have put $100 to better use'.

Wednesday, June 21, 2006

Poblano

Location: 5850 Sunset Dr., South Miami
t: 305.740.9087
Cuisine type: Mexican to Tex-Mex
Price: Moderately priced
Hours: m.closed, t-th&su.11:30am-9pm, f-s.11:30am-11pm

Give this place your patronage.

I am probably getting a jump on most of your usual restaurant review sources with this one. Poblano, has become a part of my restaurant repertoire, and quite frankly my Mexican restaurant of choice, thus far. It's a family run operation. The family is always on hand and seems to champion the ever elusive concept that the sole function of any business is to make their customers happy. They are quick to satiate my craving for enchiladas in mole even though it is nowhere to be found on the menu. This symbolism merits mention because, one I get what I want, and two my parting point for all the Mexican restaurants I judge is the mole. That said the mole at Poblano is good, honestly it's very good, the best I have had in Miami. I warn you though it's spicy, so like me you'll probably use that as an excuse to wash it down with 4 or 6 beers.

I know you will like the place the moment they serve you their rendition of chips and salsa. The other day I tried their fajitas and loved them, I can think of only two places that top them and they're both in Texas. However, don't expect the fajitas to be accompanied by extra fixings like sour cream and shredded cheese; these are in the nude without embellishments, in all their glory. Though, believe me when I tell you that you won't miss the accompaniments.

They are open for both lunch and dinner every day, closing on Mondays. Lunchtime is distinguishable from dinner in that they serve several specials at lunch time prices. This might probably be a good time to mention that Poblano is moderately priced, maybe even verging on expensive, depending on your relativity factor. Appetizers range from $6 to $10, and entrees average about $18.

The decor goes a long way in adding to the positive experience. Furniture pieces like the mirror at the entrance and the old Mexican doors, turned partitions, abutting the bar area look like objects I'd like to have in my home, thus the plot I'm devising for a favorable relocation of the mirror in the men's bathroom. The reason why I even mention these things, and I know just about now you've started to ask yourself that precise question, is because they add to the overall ambiance. Even the art work makes you feel at ease.

So call up some friends, rendezvous at Poblano, order a few beers (I like the Negra Modelo) or the cucumber lemonade, let the chef do the work, and amuse yourself with the notion that there is no place you'd rather be.

Oh yeah and if you try the Gruyere cheese soup with tequila or the Margaritas made with wine before I do, let me know what you thought.

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

The Aperitif

Now, I know that colorful saying, 'opinions are like _____' (you can madlib the rest) and though we all have them, some are more full of it than others. My opinions, are just that, opinions.

Why then should you even begin to waste your time with what could be just another long winded, and often times down right pompous adoration of food?

I, like you, have found myself sifting through wordy restaurant reviews trying to find which one could satisfy the high expectations of a Saturday night outing. Though some do a great job feeding my appetite and painting quite an appealing picture, I often find myself wishing I had a quick, clear, and earnest opinion from which to make a decision. I plan to do just that.

I am not a professional, nor do I have the financial sponsoring to try most of the dishes on a given menu, but I love food and I love talking about food. That said, I promise to provide you with a true and sincere opinion, with the ultimate goal of generating some good discussion and paving the way for a free exchange of ideas.

I truly hope that you find this site helpful, and that we will be able to chat, you know, no big whoop.

Welcome,

Andres