Thursday, July 27, 2006

The Restaurants of New Mexico

I traveled to New Mexico last weekend, and though this is indeed the Miami Restaurant Guide you can't let such a small technicality stand in the way of my travel stories. I will, however, stick to food talk, which apparently comes rather naturally to me, given the fact that the only pre-trip information I compiled was of a gastronomic nature, a detail I did not realize on my own but instead was pointed out to me.

Though I indulged in more than just the two restaurants that follow, I thought that a 'best of' and 'worst of' approach would keep from veering this site too far off its original vision.

Cafe Pascual's
121 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, New Mexico
t:505.983.9340
Cuisine type: Southwestern
Price: Moderately priced

This is the best food experience I had in New Mexico. If you are ever in Santa Fe this place is a must. Pascual's is the epitome of a neighborhood restaurant. The quaintness of the dining area makes you feel as if you could turn to any adjacent table and find a friend to engage in conversation. All the while oblivious to the fact that there is someone in the kitchen who really knows what they are doing. I had no idea that a place that does not seem to take itself that seriously could turn out such exquisite culinary offerings.

When the waitress, who I must add was very accommodating, invited any questions about the menu, I asked what I always ask: 'what's the best dish on the menu?' Expecting the usual answer, which of course involves anything with lobster or caviar in it, I was very surprised to hear her recommend the chicken sandwich, an item which I had completely overlooked. Shocked by her honesty I ordered the grilled free range chicken breast sandwich with manchego cheese, caramelized onions and jalapenos on toasted chile-cornbread. Let me just say that its memory still lingers. Never had I had, nor do I believe I will ever have, a better chicken sandwich. If you go for lunch trust me, order this. If you go for breakfast order the pancakes they are very good. If you go for dinner, ask the same question I did and let me know the result. If you are an organic vegetarian and you go, as is my brother, let them know and they will find a way to make your experience unforgettable as well.

Coyote Cafe
132 West Water St, Santa Fe, New Mexico
t:505.9831615
Cuisine type: Southwestern
Price: Expensive

If you are considered a chef whose renown begets comparison to a pillar of American regional fare and your flagship restaurant is heralded as the institution where modern Southwestern cuisine was founded, then, you have a lot to live up to. Chef Mark Miller was not tending to his restaurant when I dined; this is understandable given his impressive ventures as a restaurateur with both national and international reach.

I would like to, at this point, do something that breaks with the usual structure of my reviews and address myself directly to Chef Miller in hopes that he might come across this in the near future.

Dear Chef Miller,

I looked forward to dining at the Coyote Cafe. I actually garnered consensus for the visit by assuring my traveling companions (my family), that your restaurant would be the standard by which all others in the area should be measured. Your restaurant has in fact proven me wrong. The Coyote Cafe experience has been the single most disappointing gastronomic let down I have ever suffered. The food was second-rate, and the service was pretentious, rude and not to mention disobliging.

I do not doubt that your expertise is to be revered and your accolades applauded, I only regret that I was not fortunate enough to see for myself.

Your customer,

Andres

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Did you eat on the weekend? Our meal, and the service, was so good on Thursday that we went back on Friday--only to be thoroughly disappointed.

brwhit6@hotmail.com

Andres said...

I apologize for not posting the two restaurants separately. I'm afraid I am not sure which one you are referring to though would really love to know. I dined at the Coyote Cafe on Monday and at Pascual's on Saturday and Sunday.

I usually like to give places a second chance, but in the case of the Coyote Cafe I will not be going back. More and more of late, I am of the opinion that if a restaurant is a great one, then I should be able to pick anything on the menu and be wowed the first time. That said, there are some places, where other dishes on the menu take a back seat to their signature dishes. Those places usually don't boast a celebrity chef. Any restaurant, in my opinion, should at the very least be consistent.

Coyote Cafe is the opposite of Pascual's, it takes itself way too seriously and does not back it up.

Did you try Pascual's? Do you live in the area?