Thursday, July 27, 2006

The Restaurants of New Mexico

I traveled to New Mexico last weekend, and though this is indeed the Miami Restaurant Guide you can't let such a small technicality stand in the way of my travel stories. I will, however, stick to food talk, which apparently comes rather naturally to me, given the fact that the only pre-trip information I compiled was of a gastronomic nature, a detail I did not realize on my own but instead was pointed out to me.

Though I indulged in more than just the two restaurants that follow, I thought that a 'best of' and 'worst of' approach would keep from veering this site too far off its original vision.

Cafe Pascual's
121 Don Gaspar, Santa Fe, New Mexico
t:505.983.9340
Cuisine type: Southwestern
Price: Moderately priced

This is the best food experience I had in New Mexico. If you are ever in Santa Fe this place is a must. Pascual's is the epitome of a neighborhood restaurant. The quaintness of the dining area makes you feel as if you could turn to any adjacent table and find a friend to engage in conversation. All the while oblivious to the fact that there is someone in the kitchen who really knows what they are doing. I had no idea that a place that does not seem to take itself that seriously could turn out such exquisite culinary offerings.

When the waitress, who I must add was very accommodating, invited any questions about the menu, I asked what I always ask: 'what's the best dish on the menu?' Expecting the usual answer, which of course involves anything with lobster or caviar in it, I was very surprised to hear her recommend the chicken sandwich, an item which I had completely overlooked. Shocked by her honesty I ordered the grilled free range chicken breast sandwich with manchego cheese, caramelized onions and jalapenos on toasted chile-cornbread. Let me just say that its memory still lingers. Never had I had, nor do I believe I will ever have, a better chicken sandwich. If you go for lunch trust me, order this. If you go for breakfast order the pancakes they are very good. If you go for dinner, ask the same question I did and let me know the result. If you are an organic vegetarian and you go, as is my brother, let them know and they will find a way to make your experience unforgettable as well.

Coyote Cafe
132 West Water St, Santa Fe, New Mexico
t:505.9831615
Cuisine type: Southwestern
Price: Expensive

If you are considered a chef whose renown begets comparison to a pillar of American regional fare and your flagship restaurant is heralded as the institution where modern Southwestern cuisine was founded, then, you have a lot to live up to. Chef Mark Miller was not tending to his restaurant when I dined; this is understandable given his impressive ventures as a restaurateur with both national and international reach.

I would like to, at this point, do something that breaks with the usual structure of my reviews and address myself directly to Chef Miller in hopes that he might come across this in the near future.

Dear Chef Miller,

I looked forward to dining at the Coyote Cafe. I actually garnered consensus for the visit by assuring my traveling companions (my family), that your restaurant would be the standard by which all others in the area should be measured. Your restaurant has in fact proven me wrong. The Coyote Cafe experience has been the single most disappointing gastronomic let down I have ever suffered. The food was second-rate, and the service was pretentious, rude and not to mention disobliging.

I do not doubt that your expertise is to be revered and your accolades applauded, I only regret that I was not fortunate enough to see for myself.

Your customer,

Andres

Thursday, July 06, 2006

El Taquito

Location:10314 W Flagler St, Miami
t:305.553.7466
Cuisine type: Nicaraguan
Price: Cheap
Hours: tu.closed, w-m.11am-8pm

As hole in the wall places go, and I do love hole in the wall places, this one is a little gem.

I consider myself somewhat of an expert on Nicaraguan cuisine. I don't actually dabble in the region's rich culinary techniques; however, you could say that my credibility on the subject lies in my appetite's boundless reveling for the stuff. I have been known, on more than several occasions, to help myself to seconds of my girlfriend's mother's cooking. Needless to say, she is Nicaraguan, and though I would love to have everyone over to partake in her feasts, you will have to get your fix at El Taquito; my pick for the best Nicaraguan food in Miami, well, that is to say, after you know whose cooking.

In my opinion, Nicaraguans are masters when it comes to cooking meat. They can take a very mediocre cut of meat and turn it into a succulent and tasty morsel. How do they do it? I can't say for sure, but El Taquito most definitely has some insight into the matter. Whether you have their churrasco or their carne asada you will bear witness to what I am saying. I usually have the meat or chicken churrasco for two, though you could elect to share. It includes two pieces of churrasco (thin cut of tenderloin or chicken breast, depending), two portions of gallo pinto (rice with red beans), two of queso frito (fried cheese), two tortillas (Nicaraguan flat bread), one whole platano maduro (fried plantain), and one whole platano verde (flattened crispy fried plantain). At about $14 for the platter, there is no possible way that you could go wrong, and you won't because everything on that dish is delicious. I am particularly partial to their gallo pinto, which I think formidable, though I'm still trying to find a place that serves it like some people in Nicaragua do - slightly overcooked and crunchy. If anyone knows of a place please share the wealth.

There are several things worth trying on the menu, though I must confess, I tend to stick to the usual, which is a bit out of character for me. Do, however, try their repochetas (tortilla folded over white cheese and fried), it's usually pretty good, eventhough I have been disappointed with it on some occasions.

If you go, pay particular attention to the typical artisan crafted statuette by the register. In a very humble restaurant setting, it is the only thing that sticks out in my mind, and not for a good reason. You see, my girlfriend has, on several occasions, empowered me to assume the task of negotiating the purchase of the figurine, claiming the experience would be a better one if I succeeded in its removal. I on the other hand think that it just wouldn't be the same without it.

So drop by for lunch sometime, order my usual, take your appetites and your low expectations and leave with the knowledge that you can't always judge a hole in the wall by the size of the hole, or its cover, well you know what I mean.

Remember the statuette, not that you can miss it.